Monday 15 February 2010

Project Routes

Good session at the weekend - Loads of great routes to work and good atmosphere - everyone's psyched. Loads of good falls being taken - Robbie's the pick of the bunch with a slow motion 'shhhhiiiitttttt' as he flew threw the air. High five!

My routes as follows

White 6C - Middle comp wall - Got to 13th clip and ran out of steam - best so far


Red 6C+ - Lisandro route - i.e. crimpy/balancy and needing mutant capabilities. Got to the layback/slap out with flag - difficult move where I took repeated falls. Eventually sussed it and got to the overhang where I was able to reach the hold above it before admitting defeat. One of favourite routes.

Purple 6C - Right of the tortoise shell. The first section is fiendish but I got past the layback crimp to the pocket before 1st fall. Then made it past the overhang where I treaded water for a while trying to get some energy back to no avail. Fell as soon as I moved on. Then straight to the top. Also a favourite route. McGeek evilness if I remember correctly.

Yellow 6B+ - Old comp wall leading ladder route. Ithink this is easily 6C as well. Renewed my battle with this route. Fell at first rockover. Next fall on final 3rd as I went for the home straight only to realise I'd bloody z clipped it! Ahhhh!

Green 6C+ - Left of tortoise shell - First go at this route. Got to mid point of the shell for first fall. Pressed on with a few more falls to get to the section above the shell. Totally goosed by this point so had to come down. Excellent route. A perfect project to work. Quite technical with some evil crimps and very pumpy and sustained. I'm going to enjoy this one - it will take quite a while to complete this one.

So pretty happy with my committment - lots of strange grunting and about 85% of the time made extra moves beyond where I wanted to take and took the falls. Almost enjoying the falls now but I'd rather flash the route given the choice. However if I wasn't falling then they would be too easy. My arm/shoulder felt great as well. Finally all the patience of the past weeks has paid off. Bring it on!


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