New Blog

Train Daddy Train has now become 'Climb Daddy Climb' and can be found at

http://www.climbdaddyclimb.com

where normal service has been resumed.

Back in the gym

Had a rest day on Wed as a project manager at work very rudely arranged a meeting during lunchtime so I had to skip my pilates class.

Got out to Ratho in the evening and completed 4 sets of 3 by 3's - felt pretty good and in control. Achieved correct levels of pump.

Highlight of the night was Rosco nailing his first 7A - Yellow route left of turtle shell - great effort!! He's well pleased. So is 'Coach Gordon'.

So got into the gym this morning for lots of assisted pull ups - fast up - slow down
Followed by frenchies - real fun
Hanging knee raises to failure.

At lunchtime got a 5k run in 30 mins followed by lots of stretching.

Tonight more pull ups at home on the fingerboard followed by a power endurance circuit of hand moves and finally 3 sets of repeaters (nine 10 sec hangs in each)

Friday is a rest day.

Training

Got into work early on Monday to work the antagonistic muscles with some free weights. 1 sec up / 3 secs down. Ouch! Followed at lunchtime with an excellent Pilates class. Severe core burning sequences. Got home and worked through a fingerboard power endurance session.

Today did a 5K recovery run in 30 mins at lunchtime followed by copious amounts of stretching. Body a bit stiff after yesterday. Feeling good though.

Hard Project Day

Great day today. Lots of failed attempts but generally my technique feels good, the finger strength is creeping back and although I fell off a lot it wasn't due to the pump for a change - definitely due to finger strength.

White 6C - Comp wall - Best yet - managed to clip 12 before falling. Good fun!

6B+ - Robbie's new route on the slab which I really surprised myself on. Felt really good going up it. Really enjoy this sort of marginal, balancey climbing. Loads of possible combinations of moves/smears really gets you thinking. 1st fall at tricky rockover and 2nd fall at very last committing smear move. Reckon I could nail this now.

7A - Middle of tortoise shell - Got to the middle of the shell for 1st fall. A couple more falls and got to the top eventually. Good route. Going to take a wee while to overcome this route.

6C+ - Lisandro route - Got to the bouldery move again and fell. Continued to roof and fell knackered from there.

6B+ - Old comp wall leading ladder route. Should have done better on this route and know I can. Previous routes took their toll on this one. Crimped out!! More like 6C this route.

Stamina & Belay Glasses

Out at Ratho on Wed night for stamina training. Managed to fit in 3 sets of 3 by 3's before time ran out. Got the pump level just right on all three sets. Felt pretty good.

Had good Pilates sessions this week and got a 5k run in on Tuesday afternoon.
Just had my first fingerboard session since December and recovery from injury. Felt good to get back on it. The fingers need the strength badly. Not lost too much though so quite happy.

Tried out my new belay glasses on Wed night - hence arriving a little late after picking them up from 'belay glasses Pete'. Cost me £85 which for a lot of climbers is probably quite eye watering! However I've spent about £160 over the last two months on Physio and sports massage to release all the muscles down the right side of my neck all the way to my elbow. I think the £85 is going to be a pretty damn good investment if it helps prevent my muscles tightening up again (which every time I was belaying I was feeling)

Takes a wee bit of getting used to them and you don't want to put them on until your partner is at least 4 clips up but after that you get a very interesting and slightly magnified view of your partners attempts. You kind of watch them climb away from you along the ground and you can see some interesting things in their technique and shifting of weight. You can really watch them the whole time and with no neck pain. Perfect! I like them.

Project Routes

Good session at the weekend - Loads of great routes to work and good atmosphere - everyone's psyched. Loads of good falls being taken - Robbie's the pick of the bunch with a slow motion 'shhhhiiiitttttt' as he flew threw the air. High five!

My routes as follows

White 6C - Middle comp wall - Got to 13th clip and ran out of steam - best so far


Red 6C+ - Lisandro route - i.e. crimpy/balancy and needing mutant capabilities. Got to the layback/slap out with flag - difficult move where I took repeated falls. Eventually sussed it and got to the overhang where I was able to reach the hold above it before admitting defeat. One of favourite routes.

Purple 6C - Right of the tortoise shell. The first section is fiendish but I got past the layback crimp to the pocket before 1st fall. Then made it past the overhang where I treaded water for a while trying to get some energy back to no avail. Fell as soon as I moved on. Then straight to the top. Also a favourite route. McGeek evilness if I remember correctly.

Yellow 6B+ - Old comp wall leading ladder route. Ithink this is easily 6C as well. Renewed my battle with this route. Fell at first rockover. Next fall on final 3rd as I went for the home straight only to realise I'd bloody z clipped it! Ahhhh!

Green 6C+ - Left of tortoise shell - First go at this route. Got to mid point of the shell for first fall. Pressed on with a few more falls to get to the section above the shell. Totally goosed by this point so had to come down. Excellent route. A perfect project to work. Quite technical with some evil crimps and very pumpy and sustained. I'm going to enjoy this one - it will take quite a while to complete this one.

So pretty happy with my committment - lots of strange grunting and about 85% of the time made extra moves beyond where I wanted to take and took the falls. Almost enjoying the falls now but I'd rather flash the route given the choice. However if I wasn't falling then they would be too easy. My arm/shoulder felt great as well. Finally all the patience of the past weeks has paid off. Bring it on!

Stamina

Good Pilates session on Monday. Still feeling the core and front of both shoulders. Got out to Ratho a little later than anticipated due to wife getting home late. So had to rush into the 3x3 endurance sets. Robbie very kindly belayed me for 2 sets which let me make up some time. Got a final set and one top rope in before the end. All a bit rushed but probably good for it. Not too much rest in between so I was totally knackered by the end. Good to be climbing injury free again!

Good week

Good week! Got through 4 sets of 3 by 3's on Wed night although the pump factor on the second set was way to high. My brachialis was still very tender but already feeling much better.

Out to Ratho today for the project routes. My arm did not trouble me at all and I was for the first time since Dec 18th able to crank hard and really go for it. Loads of good new routes to smash myself against as well.

Orange 6C - main wall - got 2/3 before first fall. A couple more attempts at the last section but couldn't make it stick.

Purple 6C - Right of tortoise shell - First fall at nasty pinch to 3 finger pocket - 2nd fall after getting over the overhang. Excellent route. I can do this route in a couple of week I think.

Red 6C+ - Lisandro masterpiece - Crimpy, balancey and technical. Got halfway to a tricky bouldery move that I could not stick. Awesome route.

Yellow 6B - Same line as Lisandro's - quite sustained crimpy stuff which I am weak on at the moment. I could do this route if I'd done it first.

White 6C - Line up the middle of the competition wall. About 10 clips so 1 clip less than 6 weeks ago. Not lost too much then. Good long fall.

Great day - feel I'll get back to where I was within a couple of weeks. Took some good sized falls - grunting and barking like a rutting stag on most of these routes but I was at my absolute limit so I don't care. Seems to be a lot of psyched kids and adults at the moment. Really good atmosphere in the arena.

A wee clip of Rosco on the campus board after his projects - he is so close to nailing 7A's at the moment. He didn't know I was filming him or it would have been forbidden or he would have tried harder and made more manly noises!

Pilates

Got back into the Pilates classes this week. Had a good session on Monday which I could feel today during today's class. Can feel those core muscles burning. My Brachialis muscle still very tender today so probably a good thing that I am climbing tomorrow night instead. Otherwise feeling good. Cold almost gone as well.

Source of weirdness located

Had a good session with Jane (sports masseur) at lunchtime today and discovered the source of the weird pains in my shoulder/arm region. As soon as she started to work my right brachialis I experienced the same weird pains and a lot of discomfort. This muscle runs between my bicep and tricep and had a nasty knot which was fecking painful when Jane ironed it out. Even now the whole area is very tender and painful but it's such a relief to discover what I think is the final piece of the jigsaw. My neck muscles are now much better and my rotator cuff muslces are all in good shape so I need to persist with all of the previous stretches and add some new ones which Jane is going to send me. Also need to stretch the pecs more as they are still a bit tight. So all of these tight muscles seem to have added up to referred shoulder pain and that should be a warning as I reckon I stretch more than the average climber and yet I was still able to have a lot of tight muscle. So I think I will see Jane every 3 months for a maintenance massage to check me over and pro-actively seek out areas of tightness. £35 quid every 3 months will be better than the £140 I reckon I've spent on physio and massage so far and not too mention the 4-5 week period of stationary progress in my training.

The line has been drawn in the sand this week - I'm coming back stronger! COME ON!!

Fightback

Had a fairly decent endurance session on Wed night getting through 4 sets of 3x3. Started feeling my shoulder a bit towards the end of the session so was a bit worried about that and it has felt a bit strange over the last few days. Kept doing the physio stretches which it seems to respond to.

Had a terrible, stinking cold Thurs + Fri but felt much better today so got out to Ratho to attempt some project routes again. Stretched the neck and shoulders well before starting as I was still feeling the shoulder a bit.

Onsighted the yellow 6A and felt not too bad.

Has a go at the white 6B+ on the right hand side of the tortoise shell. Came close to onsighting it.

New leading ladder green 6B+ which I dogged my way up eventually. Meandering with good variety. I can do better on this.

Purple 6C to the right of the tortoise shell - Felt not too bad on this although my crimp strength let me down.

Finished with a go at a tricky top rope problem for a bit of fun. Overall quite happy that although my crimp strength has suffered from the layoff my stamina seems not too bad and I think within a few weeks I can get it back. I'll start adding some fingerboard work into the routine again this week (gently). My shoulder still feels a bit weird although it coped with with everything today so I'm hoping that pushing it a wee bit harder today might stimulate some more recovery. I'm looking forward to being fit and healthy again. Also was very happy with my commitment today - took lots of falls and pushed as hard as I could on each route - probably quite psyched due to not climbing much lately!

Square 1

Missed Wednesday climbing due to wife getting home late from work. Most unfortunate but at least it forced me to rest having seem the physio at lunchtime.

So - got to the wall on Sat morning with Rosco and John. Good news in that I managed 4 sets of 3 by 3's and everything felt more or less ok. Still some twinges but I was careful not to try anything too overhanging and tried to be very controlled.

More endurance on Wed night and will get back to project routes on Sat which will be interesting. Lots of new routes to get into so at least that should offset the 4 week break in the training.

Getting better!

Finally after a lot of neck stretching things seem to be improving. Was out at Ratho for a climb today and although I could still feel twinges things felt much better. I was able to lock off and hang on my right arm and it was ok. So all these neck muscles being super tight seem to manifest as pain in my shoulder. They must be cranking hard on it. So relieved it's not my rotator cuff! Always good to get a professional opinion. £36 quid well spent! Going to start back on the endurance climbing on Wed night and get into my program again. Lots of new routes getting put up on the main wall which will help keep the motivation levels up.

Relief

Was at FASIC today to get properly diagnosed by the physios. The good news is that my shoulder and rotator cuff muscles are ok. The pain I'm experiencing is as a result of the very tight muscles in the right side of my neck. Even better news is that I should be able to overcome this quickly and that in the interim I don't need to stop climbing as long as I don't go crazy. So, lots of neck stretching twice daily from now on and will get out to Ratho on Sunday for some fun. I'll go for a run tomorrow at lunchtime to celebrate. Happy days!

Physio

Still not happy with the shoulder despite everything so I'm going to the FASIC clinic tomorrow to get another opinion. I've used them before and they are well worth the money. Better to be safe than sorry! Trying to remain positive. At least got a half hour run and some stretching in at the gym at lunchtime. Gym was very busy. Lots of new year resolutionists methinks.

Frustration

Got out to Ratho for a climb with John today. I got up and down a few easy grade routes but could still feel twinges when locking off and hanging on my right arm. Mixed it up with some easy top ropes and some slab routes. Will see how it all feels tomorrow morning. At least John was going well.

Monkey boy is also going good guns. Walked into my kitchen tonight to witness this scene (see pics below). An attempt at pizza/kettle/booze direct. He's very pleased with himself and has now repeated about 4 times! Going to have to move stuff again. Pretty good at 2 years and 2 months old. Soon I'll be able to boulder every night and his mother won't complain. It makes you proud. I'm not sure whether admiring your baby's onsight attempts without boulder mats is good parenting but be assured I was spotting him. (and offering encouragement)

I particularly like the way he steps up, put a wee twist in to get his weight over his left foot and get the knee mantle in. He's got the bug!

He nearly climbed out the bathroom window when he was about 1 and a half. Onto the toilet - to the cistern - mantle to the window ledge and step out. Luckily his mother walked in at that point and talked him back in!

Stretching

Yep - another day of stretching - worked shoulder and neck at lunchtime and then shoulder again this evening. At least no reaction to last nights tentative traversing which is encouraging. Will get out to Ratho on Sunday and hope to get some easy grade stamina routes in. Until then - more stretching and strengthening. Feeling more positive now.

Tentative climb

Got a good pilates session in at lunchtime. Avoided anything putting too much pressure on the shoulder. Felt pretty good.

Went out to Ratho tonight. Had a need to at least touch some holds. Stuck to some easy traverses in the boulder room and a few easy problems. Could still feel the shoulder a bit but not too bad. Very difficult watching the other guys cranking hard on cool looking problems and not being able to join in. Injuries suck!

My neck strengthening exercises
1. Stand against a wall, head and if possible shoulders against wall - engage the core muscles during exercise to protect lower back.

2. Pretend you have weights in your hands - the hands should be at your sides then "tongue to roof of mouth" - tilt head which should remain in contact with the wall at all times forward slowly - hold for 5 secs and then release coming back to eye level slowly - X5

3. Adopt same body position for 1. tilt head on wall "ear to shoulder" then back to centre and repeat on other side 3 sec X5 - arms should remain heavy as if holding weight to feel stretch.

4. Same body position - turn head to one side "ear to wall" at eye level making sure opposite shoulder is not pulling round with head - keep shoulder back on wall with arms heavy. Hold 3 secs X5

Neck Stretching exercises
1. Arms clasped behind head "breathing in" take chin to chest - hold 3-5 secs - slowly return to eye level - breathe out - repeat X3

2. Left hand on right side of head pull left ear to shoulder then tilt eyes to ground - left corner. Hold right arm down side as if weight in hand to get full stretch - hold 3-5 secs X3 - alternate with other side.

3. Finally excellent stretch for posture to stretch front of neck. Hold (pin) muscles under collar bone on the left side by placing one hand on the other - pull down diagonally towards left then take head directly back and then over to right side to feel stretch - feel more by opening and closing mouth to work facial muscles 3-5 secs hold repeat alternate sides.

Soon my life will consist of nothing but stretching - It pays off though. I know this!

Remedial Sports Massage

Had the best sports massage ever today. Turns out my shoulder is in pretty good condition which is encouraging. The exercises have been working their magic. However all the muscles in my neck running up the back of my skull were very tight. Some of them were very painful whilst being worked over but feel so much better now. I'm still tingling. I suspect this has not been helping the shoulder so I have some excellent new stretches to do to help my neck area as well.

I have a feeling that the cause of this may well be the gazing up whilst belaying. I might consider getting some of those glasses that work like a periscope and suffer looking like a twat. But a twat with no neck pain.

Going for a climb tomorrow night - Will be taking it easy though!

Back to the grind

Back at work and back to the normal routines. So much easier to stay motivated although the working part sucks. Had a good pilates session today. Went easy on the shoulder by dropping down to 2 kg weights and worked through some excellent strengthening exercises before moving on to concentrate on the core. Only had 2 weeks off but could really feel the muscles working hard. They will be hurting tomorrow. Continued using the Thera-band and worked through the shoulder strengthening exercises this evening. Shoulder is feeling better but still some tightness and clicking going on.

Got a session with the sports massage therapist at the work gym tomorrow lunchtime which I think I badly need. It's been a while. Hope she'll be able to loosen off a lot of the muscles in my back.

Recovery

More strengthening exercises for the shoulders today. Got the Thera-band out and worked through the exercises on this link that McGeek gave me. Definately going to do these on a daily basis from now on. They felt good so I'm encouraged.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=119

Also, seems like a good time to review things and I'm going to drop the accumulator class when I start back at work next week. Looks like I've still being overdoing it so will replace this class with a gentle recovery run or stretching depending on how I feel. Going to ease off on the pullups and fingerboard and concentrate on aerobic endurance for a month and re-assess then.

Rehabilitation

Wrist feeling better. Shoulder feeling not too bad so did some more strengthening exercises today. Still going to give climbing a miss tomorrow and maybe do some on Wednesday night.

http://www.bodyresults.com/e2rotatorcuff.asp

Some good exercises in the above link. I'll incorporate these into the weekly routine from now on. Some other good shoulder strengthening info can be found using the below link.

http://climbinginjuries.com/page/exercises

Trying to remain focused. At least it coincided with the Xmas period and as always I've picked up lots of new info and ideas which will be of benefit going forward. Itching to climb though.